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Emma Hobson is a British Skin and Body Care Specialist who has been in the industry for over 23 years. With experience ranging from business owner to corporate manager, Emma has collected an extensive range of knowledge in all aspects of the professional beauty industry.
In 1993, Emma joined the Dermal Group of Skin Care Companies as Instructor for The International Dermal Institute at their London Location. Since 1995 Emma has been heading up the education department as Education Manager for Asia, Australia and New Zealand.
As we continue our series of skintype profiles, Emma discusses Oily Skin. |
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What is Oily Skin and how do I know if I have it?
A skin that has a very active oil flow from the sebaceous glands. It has a visually oily shine and open pores. Prevalent in the young and activated at puberty.
What is acne?
That depends on the technical term or generally what is considered to be acne. Technically a single spot is an acne lesion. Generally, acne is a skin disorder that comes in four grades from mild, being a few inflamed breakouts, blackheads and under the skin congestion to severe where the skin has lesions that not only include spots (pustules) and blackheads but also cysts and nodules.
The majority of acne breakouts are caused from hormonal fluctuations in the body e.g puberty or stress.
There are four main factors that contribute to an acne lesion/breakout;
1.
Overactive sebaceous glands (excess oil is produced)
2.
Dead cell accumulation (congested follicles)
3.
Bacteria (helps cause the inflamed breakout)
4.
Inflammation (causes the redness and pain and the reason for scarring)
What is the difference between oily and combination skin?
Oily skin is when the oil/sebaceous glands are over active over the entire face and most likely chest and possibly the back.
Combination skin is when the sebaceous glands are only over active over the T-Zone of the skin, being the forehead, nose and chin.
What ingredients should I look for to help with oily skin?
Ingredients include, Niacinamide and Nordihydroguaiaretic Acid which help with oily shine and are all fantastic at purifying the skin and promoting clarity and preventing breakouts.
Salicylic Acid and Lactic Acid stimulate natural exfoliation to eliminate the impaction of cell accumulation. Salicylic Acid as it is fantastic and clearing congestion without irritating the skin (is actually used in Aspirin).
To control bacteria, Spirea Ulmaria Extract, Cinnamon Extract, Zinc Gluconate. To keep inflammation caused by acne under control, consider the application of topical anti inflammatories, these include, Green Tea, Camphor, Allantoin and Oat Extract.
Hyaluronic acid is a great ingredient that helps prevent the dehydration and dry patches associated with clearing products.
Alginated Zinc Triplex is a fantastic ingredient complex which is a combination of hydrolysed Algin (from brown seaweed) and zinc sulphate which can reduce sebum by approximately 26%. In addition clays are a great ingredient in absorbing excess oil without drying the skin out
Are there vitamins or certain foods that can help with oily skin?
A supplement of Zinc is often recommended to help acne skin.
Foods that will help your skin cope with stress would be making sure that you have adequate protein consumption each day ( .8 grams of protein per kilo of body weight per day) Eat frequently , consuming nutrient dense foods such as nuts , seeds , dried fruit, hummus, and avoid heavy , large meals that will be difficult to digest.
East plenty of fresh vegetables and fruit, consume anti oxidant rich foods and drink herbal teas and water. Stay away from processed foods and foods contain a high quantity of refined sugars and stimulants such a coffee, alcohol.
Is it uncommon to have oily skin as an adult?
No not at all, many people an have oily skin for the majority of their life, it tends in women, to change at the time of menopause when the skin (and body fluids) starts to become less oily.
Some good advice:
Ensure you become an ingredient reader; avoid ingredients like Mineral oil, Lanolin, S.D Alcohol, Artificial colours and Fragrances.
Seek the advice of a professional skin therapist and invest in professional treatments that will address your individual skin concerns and needs.
Don’t pick or squeeze any pimple or blackhead, this can lead to bruising and damage of the follicle and can cause permanent scarring!
Finally, try to reduce your stress levels and maintain a healthy diet.
How are whiteheads caused?
A whitehead (known as a closed comedone or milia) is where a plug of congestion (sebum and dead skin) has a hardened in a follicle and a cap of dead skin cells has grown over the opening/surface of the follicle or the follicle opening is very small trapping the congestion inside the skin. Hence the top does not turn black like a black head.
Whiteheads are commonly found where the skin is finer e.g. around the eyes and tops of the cheeks. They are non-inflamed lesion
What is the difference between a whitehead and a blackhead?
A blackhead (known as a open comedone) is an over active oil gland (sebaceous follicle) that is clogged with oil (sebum), dead skin cells, tiny hairs, and sometimes bacteria that combine to make a plug.
The surface of the plug being in contact with the light & air at the opening of the follicle oxidizes and turns black. That’s why when you remove a blackhead the top is back but the rest is a whitish colour. They are non-inflamed lesion
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